Tomato Relish

Ripe tomatoes, sharp vinegar and secret spices, slow-reduced | Nana's tomato relish, preserved on hestia

This Tomato Relish stands as a legendary anchor in our Nana's kitchen history. Moving beyond a simple condiment, this dish celebrates the unhurried transformation of ripe produce into a savory staple that has graced countless family tables.

Method

1. Prepare the tomatoes: Peel 2.7kg (6lb) of tomatoes using the recommended method of plunging them into near-boiling water for a minute or less. Cut them into pieces and place them in a large non-reactive pan or bowl. Sprinkle with half of the handful of salt.

2. Prepare the onions: Dice 900g (2lb) of onions and add them to the pan. Sprinkle the remaining salt over the mixture.

3. The Overnight Rest: Leave the mixture to sit overnight. This "ingredient of patience" allows the salt to draw out excess moisture from the produce.

4. Initial Simmer: The following day, pour off the accumulated liquid. Return the tomatoes and onions to the pan and add enough white vinegar to just cover them. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes.

5. Create the Spice Paste: In a small bowl or jug, combine 680g (1 ½ lb) of sugar, ½ cup of cornflour, 2 tablespoons of mustard, 1 ½ teaspoons of curry powder, and 1 teaspoon of turmeric. Whisk in a small amount of extra vinegar until the mixture forms a smooth paste.

6. Thicken and Reduce: Add the spice paste to the boiling tomatoes and onions, stirring well to ensure even distribution. Boil for an additional 30 minutes until the relish has thickened into a rich, savory consistency.

7. Seal and Preserve: While still hot, pour the relish into prepared jars and seal immediately to preserve the vibrant flavours of the harvest.

Ritual of Presence

• The Tactile Harvest: As you handle the tomatoes, notice the coolness of their skins and the yielding weight of the fruit. Let this initial, manual act root you in the present moment, acknowledging the "dignity of the task" as you prepare to preserve the season’s abundance.

• The Aromatic Anchor: As the vinegar and spices hit the heat, breathe in the sharp, rising steam. Notice how the scent shifts from pungent and raw to deep, sweet, and savoury. Let this scent serve as a sensory cue of continuity, linking your current kitchen to the kitchens of those who made this before you.

• The Patient Simmer: Treat the long cooking time as a dedicated period of rest. As the relish bubbles and thickens into a deep crimson, intentionally step away from the day’s obligations. Let the steady, quiet warmth of the kitchen remind you that some of the best things in life require a dedicated time of stillness to reach their full potential.

• The Gift of Enoughness: Before sealing the jars, take a moment to acknowledge the communal nature of this recipe. A relish is made to be shared—passed across tables and gifted to neighbours. Recognize this batch as a vital coordinate in your family’s sensory history, providing a moment of "enoughness" for all who will taste it.